For convenient placement of household appliances and lighting devices, an outlet block is often used. It has 2 to 5 power points. Installation of the kit is not difficult if the wizard has skills. Even a beginner can cope with work.
Outlet Design
A complete set for the installation of power points has the following structure:
- set of sockets;
- the polymer panel itself with 2-4 sockets located on it.
The dimensions of one are 72x72 mm. Respectively:
- two points in a row - 142 mm;
- three - 212 mm;
- four - 284 mm.
It is necessary to know these parameters in order to correctly determine the installation point of the outlet block (distance from the wall or window). More often it is placed in such places:
- Kitchen. As a rule, power points are installed above the work surface 40 cm (minimum) from the sink.
- Living room. To prevent the outlets from being visible, they can be removed behind a TV stand or under a bar counter.
- Bathroom. Here the whole structure can be placed behind the built-in wardrobe. In this way, the feeding points will be hidden from the eyes and moisture by the furniture doors.
It is advisable to raise the sockets from the floor to a level of 60 cm and above.
Connection Methods
There are two ways to connect power points to the power cable:
- Loopback. It means powering each outlet from one line. The advantage of this method is the minimal complexity of the process. Minus - failure of all power supply points under the condition of the slightest damage to the cable in at least one of them. The maximum load for a unit connected by a loop method is 16 A.
- Combined. A newer way to connect multiple outlets at once. It means laying two cables from the junction box at once. The first type of loop feeds three of the four outlets. The second is intended for 4 power points and can serve more powerful equipment (stove). The main plus of such a connection is that the remaining sockets of the unit are insured against failure in case of problems with “strong” equipment and power points for it. Of the minuses, the masters distinguish the complexity of the process and the double consumption of the electric cable.
Both types of connection can be laid in a closed (in gates) and open (in PE channels) way. The latter option is additionally protected from mechanical stress by cable channels or a plinth with internal grooves.
Preparation for installation
In order for each block socket to be installed correctly, you need to prepare the following materials:
- panel with the required number of power points;
- decorative strip;
- wiring cable with the required meter - it is measured from the junction box along all vertical and horizontal gates to the point of construction location;
- wire for jumpers;
- Alabaster or gypsum (can be putty).
From the tools you need to prepare:
- building level or ruler;
- pencil;
- punch with a crown for concrete and drywall with a diameter of 70 mm;
- chisel, hammer;
- electrical tools;
- putty knife;
- container for kneading putty (gypsum, alabaster).
Noisy work is preferably performed on a weekday from 10:00 to 17:00, when the bulk of the neighbors are outside the house.
DIY block mounting
All steps to install a group of power points are performed in strict sequence.
Wall marking
Performed using a building level or a ruler with a marker. Future channels should be located only vertically or only horizontally.It is forbidden to make oblique strobes for laying the cable. It is important to precisely mark the places for installing the rosettes. Between their central parts should be strictly 72 cm. Otherwise, the boxes will not fit.
Strobing
Preparation of channels for cable laying can be performed with a puncher, grinder, and chisel with a hammer. Each master selects a method for himself, depending on the availability of one or another tool.
The principle of the formation of the strobe looks like this:
- On the marking line, a grinder makes a cut from two sides. If the master works with a puncher, holes are made along the line with steps of 1.5-2 cm.
- With the help of a hammer and a chisel, excess concrete is knocked out of the wall, forming channels for laying the wiring.
- Technical recesses for the installation of podrozetniki make a perforator with a crown. Concrete is also cut here, and then the excess is knocked out with a chisel and hammer. If necessary, select the depth of the excavation. Periodically insert the socket into concrete, checking how its edges protrude above the plane of the wall. The norm is considered some deepening of the elements inward. Later, excess free space will be filled with a building mixture.
When carrying out dirty work, it is advisable to use a respirator to protect the airways from building dust. Equally important is the use of safety glasses.
Installation of socket boxes
To install a set of socket boxes, it is advisable to buy special plastic glasses for them. Elements are fixed in nests using alabaster or gypsum mortar. It is prepared from bulk material, mixing with water in a ratio of 4: 1. The consistency should look like thick sour cream.
The finished solution is laid in the nest of the concrete wall and, having released wires into the technical gaps of the glasses, they are mounted on the wall. It is important to track the evenness of the cup installation using a level. It is unacceptable if they protrude above the plane of the wall. Using the remains of the building mixture, the wall around the future block is smoothed as much as possible.
The solution sets in about 2-4 hours. For fidelity, you can give him a day to dry.
Features of the installation of outlet blocks in drywall
If the consignment note is to be inserted into the wall from drywall, less labor can be applied here. The subgrid block has special paws that you just need to press against the GKL box on the sides. In turn, the outer protrusion-rim of the glass simply will not let it fall into the inside. If further it is assumed that the wall is tiled, it is necessary that the element protrudes above the wall plane to the thickness of the facing material.
At the time of formation of the nests for glasses, it is advisable not to press hard on the wall so as not to break it. Drywall - The material is relatively fragile.
If there is not enough space between the wall and the gypsum board slab, you will have to carefully deepen the concrete or brickwork at the block location.
Electrical connection
After the solution dries, proceed to plug the cable into outlets. With the loop method, they act like this:
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- The cable mounted from the junction box is led into the first socket box. Its braid must first be cleaned with a knife or side cutter 10-15 cm to free the internal wires. It is advisable to leave a small margin for possible future repairs.
- Prepared multi-colored jumper wires are used in advance. Their cross-section should be the same as that of the power cable. No need to make jumpers very long. They will prevent the unit from tightly "sitting" in the nests. On the jumpers, remove the braid by 1 cm.
- Thread all wires through the technical connectors-holes in the socket.
- From the typesetting block, remove the upper protective cover and unscrew the clamping screws by 5-6 mm. The first conductor is brought to 1 socket, taking into account the position of the terminals. Already from it, with the help of contacts, the PE conductor and all zero cables are taken to the remaining sockets.
- All sockets with wiring are neatly attracted by the fixing screws without effort. The master must remember that the power line connections must remain unassembled.
- All exposed sections of wires are wrapped with insulating tape.
- It remains to insert the undergrowth with the veins brought into the glasses and fix using the side clamps.
- The level controls the evenness of the block.
- Lastly, mount the top of the kit.
At the time of the loop connection, it is important to monitor the polarity of the contacts. The same cable is diverted from the zero terminal. From the phase conductor - phase.
A fully assembled and installed wall unit should “sit” tightly, not give in to attempts to move it by hand.
