How to connect multiple outlets from one wire

The content of the article:

Types of electrical wiring
Connection Methods
Installation procedure
Installing the product with a switch

No existing power supply system is complete without power outlets, in the absence of which normal functioning of household appliances is impossible. Due to the constant increase in the number of devices connected to them, the current load on the power line increases markedly. This cannot but affect the architecture of building household electrical networks, the total number of outlets in which it is necessary to increase. Users often have the need to connect 3 sockets from one wire without disturbing the distribution of currents in the supply line.

Types of electrical wiring

Parallel connection of three outlets to one wire

Before you figure out how to connect three outlets from one wire, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the existing types of laying electrical circuits. In accordance with the rules for their arrangement, prescribed in the EMP, modern electrical wiring has two versions: closed and open. In the first case, the harness with wires, through which voltage is supplied, is laid hidden. For him, special recesses (gates) are made in the walls and ceiling in which the cable is laid. Benefits of Hidden Gasket:

Reliable protection against mechanical damage.
Safety of electrical wiring.
The absence of external wires that degrade the aesthetics of rooms and other rooms.

The disadvantage is the difficulty of accessing the cable if it is necessary to restore it or completely replace it; repair will require a lot of labor.

With the open method, laying is carried out on the surface of the walls and ceiling. The bundles in this case are placed in special boxes (cable channels) or in the corrugation. With their help, it is possible to hide the conductive veins, which remain, however, available for inspection and repair.

The advantages of this laying method:

Easy maintenance and recovery.
Availability when you need to connect an intermediate outlet.
The possibility of arranging electrical wiring in the "retro" style.

The disadvantage of this technique is the need to divert special sections of walls for laying cable channels or corrugations, without making these zones furniture. To eliminate this inconvenience, the harnesses are laid in special niches available in plastic skirting boards.

When choosing the appropriate method for laying the bundle or cable, proceed from the specific conditions and requirements for connecting individual elements of the power supply network.

Connection Methods

Ways to connect outlets

Before you connect many power outlets in a row, it is important to understand the existing methods for connecting them. Depending on the switching order of the individual conductors, the following options are distinguished:

Parallel connection, in which the sockets must be connected with a "star".
Serial connection, otherwise called a "loop".
Combined inclusion using a loop and a star.
The connection in the ring.

Each of the listed methods is selected depending on the architecture of the room and considerations of saving on installation products. Parallel connection with a "star" is convenient when wiring the supply network from a single center (distribution board, for example).

The sequential method (or loop) is used when a number of outlets installed one after another are turned on on this line. Separate contacts (phase and zero) are connected to each other in parallel, the sequential method is called only because of the order of the location of the socket nodes.

When combined, in certain areas of the product, they are installed in a row, after which a “star” is arranged from one of them.

The “ring” connection is a sequential arrangement of sockets, the end of which closes at its beginning. This switching method allows you to connect sockets on large areas: at exhibitions, in workshops and trading floors.

Installation procedure

Drywall is a fragile material, you need to work with it carefully

Before proceeding with the independent installation of outlets, you will need to read the instructions for their installation. The easiest way to consider an example is when they are installed in a drywall. The order of work in this case looks like this:

An electric drill is taken with a nozzle of the “crown” type, by means of which a hole for a socket is prepared in a selected place. Its diameter should coincide with the size of the plastic case (cup) used as a mounting base and fixed directly at the installation site.
A mounted socket is placed in the glass and fastened in it with the help of long expansion screws.
It is necessary to connect the phase and neutral conductors brought out to the contacts, and then close the product with a decorative cover.

If there is a third core in the electrical wiring in the yellow-green insulation, its bare end is connected to the ground terminal on the outlet.

At the final stage of the work, you should supply power to the line and check the socket for operability - connect any household appliances to it.

In order to correctly connect several outlets in a row (loop) at once, experts advise you to pay attention to the following points:

The wire from the phase terminal of one socket unit extends to the same contact of the next product and so on. To such a loop, you can add the whole set of outlets installed in this room.
The same applies to the neutral conductor laid from the corresponding contact to the second and subsequent products mounted on the wall.
In the presence of a grounding conductor, the same operations are performed with it.

The advantages of this method of connection should include ease of implementation and economical use of consumables (wires). The disadvantages are the unreliability of the system in which a break in one of the conductors will lead to a blackout of all subsequent outlets connected to this cable. In this sense, star coupling is much preferable.

Installing the product with a switch

An interesting option from the point of view of connecting sockets is the version with a switch located in the same case. In this case, the connection operation is somewhat complicated, which is explained by the special switching circuit of the outlet. When connected to the loop, the phase wire is made through, it should not be connected to the return contact of the switch. If this outlet is turned off, the entire line of products following it will not be de-energized.

The advantages of combined designs include:

Admissibility of exclusion of an electrical unit from a common loop without prejudice to all its other elements.
Convenience of service and repair, not related to other outlet products.
Aesthetics and ease of installation.

The only drawback of such devices from the point of view of the consumer is the high cost. Experts note the inconvenience of sockets combined with switches, which consists in the need to replace the entire product when one element fails.

Comments

Raul

Author, are you by any chance a politician or journalist? Operates in terms, misleading people. On all three circuits, the connection is parallel, the difference is only in the geometric arrangement of the outlets. It would be interesting to see the operation of electrical appliances plugged into sockets connected in series.

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Vladimir

Precisely noticed. There is no serial connection of outlets. The first outlet will work, but the rest are unlikely.

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Andrew

In addition, there are circuits on several wires and not on one. On one, of course, there is also (you can google), but this is a completely different story. There really is one wire coming to the outlet, but there is its own outlet design. Of the advantages of outlets with one wire, a smaller number of conductors, of the minuses, low efficiency, it is desirable to use high-frequency TV only with alternating current.

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no way

Practical application in practice, we carry everything on the ceiling, do not make snot and do not rot concrete.

1. Corrugation - not needed, as a relic of history, that is black, that gray, that any other. There is nothing to protect from, just extra fuss with cables and a waste of money.
2. The entrance to the apartment should be thicker, 10 squares just right, i.e. 3 core cable for 220V, and 5 if 380V, you can simply PV1x10, multi-colored.
3. Unpacking boxes, at least 100x100 external, need to be heated, but not critical, it is better to put them on the wall closer to the ceiling, on a straight vertical line to the switches, it is easier to get to them if necessary, and it’s more convenient to twist the wires under the PPE, ideal companies 3M, very rarely found on sale, KVT (Kaluga) is also in the subject. For especially important ones, you can flatten the sleeves, take them for a long time, tediously and drive them into colorful heat shrink.
4. VVGp cable 3x2.5 (if it is multi-core, which is many times worse, then shove such a wire into sockets, switches and circuit breakers - only with sleeves) on sockets and 3x1.5 lighting, in each of its rooms its own, better observing the principle, one wall - one branch, also with a kitchen, if the stove - then 3x6 (5x6) and three branches 3x2.5 on the outlet.
5. Installation of tracks is better 6mm dowel-self-tapping screw and pieces of wire 1.5 in isolation, saving on slop clips, pads and clamps
6. No diagonal broaches, all in straight lines, dividing each cable from each other with the same piece of 1.5 wire, do not forget to tag, every meter is better, paper tape is cheaper and not erased.
7. Crossings through the walls of 20 or 32 PVC pipe and better than not one, it is possible and plumbing.
8. Sockets and switches - it’s simpler here, we make blocks of 4-6 places for sockets and 1-3 places for switches, single-button ones are almost always more convenient, although they will come out more expensive, don’t even try to take on the terminals, only screw, ideally from the junction box at the top, drown two PVC pipes by 20 in the wall and drive the cable into it, the second pipe in case of a reserve, but it is better to pull the cable immediately, leaving the ends at 20cm (you will always have time to cut off). By the way, there are no nozzles such as a jumper from a socket to a socket, from one point (the sleeve is very appropriate, but PPE is also suitable), the wires are separated on each socket, so the block is placed in the center, relative to the vertical pipe (2 is better).
9.All that we drown in the wall, drown on the alabaster, there are no dances with a tambourine and nothing will fall off.
10. A shield, it is not necessary for a specific number of machines, we always take more, carry less in a limited space and leave room for laying wires, ideally three rows of 12-18 modules. We bring 32 PVC pipes to the shield, how many will fit in the dimensions of the box and it is better on all sides. From the new shield we throw out everything except the DIN rails, add the terminal block for zero and ground, this is such a box with a lid, is attached to the DIN rail, for 14 connections or more, eat less, but not worth it. We don’t immediately set the phase bus, it is more convenient to change the machines, without it, temporarily jumpers from the wire of 10 square cable.
We remove the insulation from the cable before switching to 32 pipes and leave a meter pieces of each wire, in the sense in the shield, immediately labels for everything, and not just for the phase.
When connecting machines, and it’s better to take Legrand (Poland) or ABB (Europe, although there is a lot of bullshit, it’s rather difficult to distinguish well from the homna), we don’t put everything we need right away, 25A for 2.5 cable, 16A for 1.5, 32A (40A) at 3x6, then adjusted for loads.
The color of the ZhZK (yellow-green-red) for the phase, if the input is 3-phase, phasing is not relevant for a simple kettle, if there is something to measure, then it is better to do it right away, zero is always blue or blue, earth is striped green.

Well, on the collective farm, it’s something like that!

Differences from the ideal, this is a NYM cable (sevcable) and everything is recessed in 16-25 PVC pipes with a 20% reserve.By the way, it’s better not to touch the concrete, in the sense not to cut gates, fill two sheets of drywall on the walls and saw it, glasses for 68 mm outlets in diameter and with a clear latch for each glass in the centers, the depth is like a glass or a little more, all the turns are smooth and better than this the same pipe, heating it with a hairdryer and bend through the spring, and connect the joints through the coupling and glue with second glue. All connections are crimped only. In addition to automatic machines, an RCD or just a differential transformer is placed on the entire outlet network, an automatic machine is not needed, but apart from saving space and money on automatic machines, there is really no benefit.

All weakness on the other side of the ceiling, in the same way.

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OLEG

According to the latest standards, grounding is NOT allowed.

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Boris

Andrei, you pour in terms that electricians don’t use - outlet designs, low efficiency. How do you determine the efficiency of an outlet? Efficiency may be with the consumer of electricity, but not with the switching device. Work only with alternating current - do you have direct current in your home? Have you worked with direct current? High frequency currents - why and how? Below your commentary is sensible, read.

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